2002 mazda protege 5 clutch pedal1/11/2024 The first one was well worth the effort though since it saved a car from total loss and got 36MPG at 65mph cruise with no more smoke on startup. I did not de-glaze the cylinder walls though due to the oil injectors at the bottom of the engine block. It took about 1 month to do my first rebuild with no previous engine work experience. If you live near a U-Pull-n-Pay, they may have a motor available, but transporting it may be harder than rebuilding the one you have, and most of their stuff is in horrible condition anyway. You will need an engine hoist, ~$150 at harbor freight, a build stand ~$30, a valve spring compressor ($50) the following parts, and sacrifice about 60 hours of your time. If you have a garage or live in a relatively warm and dry area with a flat concrete driveway you could rebuild your FS-DE motor. The crank position sensor wire shielding/ground is a little frayed but i think that is just another red herring.īut is the EGR open when there is no electricity applied? The car ran fine but was burning a lot of oil before i rebuilt it intake hose and MAF are impeccable, and has new air filter Upstream catalytic convert is in good condition engine knock sensor was replaced with a spare in an attempt to draw out a CEL, but that did nothing all wiring harness connectors are plugged in battery is in good condition and it is recharging with electricity from the alternator radiator and engine passages are filled with proper level of coolant cleaned the throttle body which did nothing checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any I checked the timing belt, again, and all marks line up at TDC unplugging an injector causes the engine to run on 1 fewer cylinder so its not a misfire issue. replacing fuel rail and injectors with a spare did nothing Has 135psi compression dry in each cylinder Oil is filled to proper level, no chips in the oil pan I will send free parts for 01-03 Protege to anyone who can fix this problem (I have a wrecked parts car). I'm about to put wheels on it and limp it to the mechanic but the service fee will likely cost more than the $600 i payed for the entire car. When i disconnect and reconnect the electric connector to the EGR, there is no change in symptoms. I heard that if an EGR valve is open it will appear as a large vacuum leak at low RPM. Is the Protege EGR valve normally open or normally closed? I just rebuilt an FS-DE engine for the same car and it does not run for more than a few seconds below 1000rpm when warm. I cleaned the PCV Valve today (Also a couple months new), no change in low idle. What do you guys think it is? I'm having a hard time and need the car for work. And letting off the brake without pressing the gas pedal has a lot of hesitation until I press on the gas. Some people have told me it could be a clogged/dirty fuel injector, but I'm trying to rule out everything else before going there (Injectors are expensive!) (headshakeĪlso, my car isn't violent at idle, there's a slight vibration that's noticable even with my exhaust on. The only code left is the misfire in cyl #3. I cleaned the throttle body (Might have to again since I don't think I did a good job) and I'm having a hard time finding time (and how) to clean the IAC (Idle air control) and EGR Valve. The spark plugs, wires, and coil packs were put in at June this year, and I replaced all of them with a continued low idle and misfire. I disconnected the battery 3 times this past week, and I noticed the car stalls a lot and then doesn't want to again everytime I disconnect and reconnect the battery. Driving on the road and highway it seems like nothing is wrong and goes until it becomes idle. After that, it didn't want to stall anymore but has a low idle at 500-400 RPM when in park/neutral, but drops down and shakes a little when in drive and reverse (Reverse is worse). 3rd time, it ran for a while, drove around the neighborhood and then stalled again. Second time starting, it ran and then stalled once in drive. However, right after I replaced the Vacuum Solenoid, connected the battery, and started the car, it stalled. I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator with one I found at the junkyard and it cleared one code, and a week later I replaced the PRC/EGR Vacuum Solenoid. P1250 - PRC/EGR Vacuum Solenoid (Device held by two bolts on top of intake manifold and on the other end of the vacuum hose connected to the Fuel Pressure Regulator) I took it to advance auto right away and discovered 3 issues. Now I'll start with this, 3 weeks ago I was driving home from work and my CEL came on. Hello, I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 (119k miles) with a low idle and a code for Cylinder Misfire #3 (P0303)
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